So, I Broke Down and Made an Archer

The day before my birthday this May, my husband and I took a day trip to Olney, IL.  Now, Olney's claim to fame is their colony of white squirrels. It's been on my list of places to visit for years now.  And, I was determined to finish and wear my new Archer shirt for the trip, a project that I began last fall.

I never considered myself a fan of button up shirts.  I think it's because they represent a combination of Catholic school repression (part of the uniform) or they're part of the dress code if I have to attend a trade show for work. I've admired them on other people but not something I would often choose to wear.

Enter the BeachComber reversible cotton gauze from Vogue Fabrics.  I saw this fabric last year during a Chicago blogger meetup.  I gazed at it and debated for a long time before not purchasing any. To me, it screamed to be made into a button up shirt - not my style

About two weeks later I decided I couldn't live without it and went back for some (which it totally my style!)

I sat on it for a while longer before deciding sometime last fall that I would succumb to the Archer pattern from Grainline Studio. I've seen so many cute versions out there and wanted to try it out. I was going to try to make a reversible shirt and use the smaller checks on the outside.

My original plan. This is also the best representation of the shirt's colors.

This took a while to make, through no fault of the pattern. I just hit a wall halfway through.  The side I was using just looked too "90s" to me and it was driving me nuts! I just didn't like it. I put it away for a while before deciding just to flip it and live with the fact that my buttons would be on the wrong side.

That made all the difference in the world!

I do have to say that for my first successful button up shirt project (there have been a few starts in the past, but nothing that ever made it to the buttonhole stage) - this fabric was a bitch to work with! It's a very loose weave and frays like crazy.  I'm lucky that I accidentally sewed the back pleat wrong to begin with, so it's perfect now. I was also attempting flat felled seams (or at least my version of them), but because there's so much fraying I had to go back over and hand reinforce them. Still, it doesn't really bother me and I don't think it's noticeable.

I cut a 6 at the top and graded to an 8 at the waist. Problems aside, I love it.  Sure, it could probably use a sway back adjustment (next time-and there will be a next time), the button band isn't perfect because it's technically the inside (but the print hides it, so who cares! And, the inside does look amazing.)

As for the Olney trip, we must of come at the wrong time, because we only saw one of the little guys! Still, it was worth it :)

Resistance is Futile

See this fabric?

This is the fabric that made me give in and join Summer Stashbust 2014.

I suck at diets - the fabric AND food varieties.  I also was very hesitant to join because fabric shopping has basically been therapeutic for me.  And let's face it, there's been enough shit going on in my life that I need all of the therapy I can get :)

Well, enter this fabric. I picked it up on a recent trip to Vogue Fabrics. I saw it across the room, hanging in the remnant section. It was beautiful. It spoke to me. I knew right away that it wanted to be made into an amazing summer dress. I could see it in my mind.  I swooped in, snatched it up and brought it home.

And forgot about it.

I can't believe I did that, but I completely forgot about it.  I only came across it when hunting for another fabric I purchased on that excursion for a project.

Would you stop taking pictures so I can sit on this already?

Something needs to change, and I think it's best if I at least try out this stash diet.  Can't fail if I don't try!

I also found out that I can still go to the fabric store and still get the "therapeutic" benefits, just by purchasing thread or patterns or other things to help me work through the stash. It's just the act of going that does it for me.

I will say that all bets are off if a certain fabric that I've been eying up at Mood for months now goes on sale (I'm looking at you Ralph Lauren blue paisley silk chiffon). But until then, let the stash busting commence!

Kimono Tee Time (Part II)

I've been meaning to post this project for a while now. Funny thing... I had the bright idea to make my friends matching Avocado hoodies for their upcoming wedding. Mind you, this was about a week and a half before the wedding. Brilliant, I know. I printed patterns and purchased fabric but wasn't able to start until last Monday. The wedding was on Friday. I managed to bust out both hoodies in 4 days!  Damn that was crazy, but so happy I finished in time. Of course I don't have pictures, but maybe I'll be able to take some soon.

So, it's because of that small little side project that I haven't had a chance to write up a proper post until now for part two of my kimono top binge, the Burda Kimono Top:

Before my official "I'm expanding my horizons and making something that's not a Renfrew" experiment [link], this was probably the only other top pattern that I've made in the past year or so.

Pattern:  Burda 7866

Fabric:  If you guess Vogue Fabric remnant room, you'd be correct! This is a very pretty, soft wine-colored knit. It's dressier than the t-shirt fabrics I normally pick up.

Size and Modifications:  I cut a straight size 10. I've had this pattern cut out for a few years now, and I probably should go up a size, at least in the hips.  Some day...  I also left out the belt because I would just lose it anyway.

I promised my photographer extraordinaire, my husband, that I would include this action shot (even though I look like I'm missing an arm):

And the back:

It's really a simple, versatile pattern. Not too many bells and whistles, but a nice basic top that I know will end up in heavy rotation.

Purple Explosion

I've been on a top-making binge lately.  Between last Wednesday and today, I've made three tops and am half-way through a fourth.

The one I'm most excited about is my second Avocado Hoodie made from the awesome heathered purple fleece I picked up from my recent trip to the Textile Discount Outlet (Blogged here. I called it maroon in that post, but after playing with it for a while, have decided it's more purple.)

Pattern: Avocado Hoodie by Disparate Disciplines. I made option B, non-overlapping hood with back pockets.

Fabric: Super soft, super awesome purple fleece from the Textile Discount Outlet. I could not stop petting this in the store. I also used purple jersey left over from this dress for the pocket lining picked up in the Vogue Fabrics remnant room.

Size and Modifications: Even though I said I would modify the size a bit after my last hoodie, I lied.  I used the same sizing as before - size 6 on top and size 8 at hips. Since this fabric is much thinner and more drapey than my first, it fits looser.

I also did elect to interface the pocket tabs with some lightweight fusible interfacing and tacked down the tabs just a bit in the corners. This helped them not gape open as much as my first hoodie. (That one isn't bad, these just lie flatter.)

Close-up of my lining:

Underneath , I had on my latest Renfrew.  This is the millionth time I've made this pattern, and there's no end in sight. This shirt was made from purple burn out jersey picked up from, you guessed it, the Vogue remnant room. Seriously, most of my Renfrew fabric comes from here.

As you can probably tell, I've been on a major purple/maroon/burgundy/wine colored fabric binge lately. But hey, if the color works, why not stick with it?

Completed Silk Saltspring!

Well, the monkey is finally off my back (or baboon off my ass, if you remember my earlier post). I finished my silk Saltspring!

This one nearly did me in! After my first attempt (see link above) I spent a lot of quality time, just me and my seam ripper, completely taking the skirt and lining apart. I spent hours more trying to figure out exactly the best way to re-cut the skirt to avoid unfortunate pattern placement and also work with the fabric that I had.

Pattern: Saltspring from Sewaholic

Fabric: Thakoon paisley silk crepe de chine from Mood Fabrics and black Ambiance Rayon Bemberg lining from Vogue Fabrics.

Construction Techniques and Modifications: I cut a 4 at top graded to 8 at the waist. I swapped the ties for thicker straps and added a skirt lining. I used French seams for the outer fabric and lining, and used strips of the lining selvage to stabilize my zipper edges.  For the zipper, I used the Sewaholic tutorial for covering the zipper end (I love this little detail):

For the skirt, my goal was to create a wall of design noise instead of having a focal point with a perfectly centered pattern (if that makes sense).  To do that, I cut the fabric on the bias(ish), taking care to make sure the pattern motifs were away from the danger zones (In addition to the unfortunate back pattern placement, my first version had one area that looked very much like a diagram of a uterus centered directly front and center. I've managed to avoid that this time around.)  I also didn't worry about pattern matching on the skirt.

One source of inspiration was this dress below. I also saw on other Thakoon outfits using the same fabric that weren't always centered or cut on grain. (Some were, some weren't.) Every time, it just magically worked and I am in awe of his pattern placement genius.

Inspiration for re-cut skirt. Source: http://www.lyst.com/clothing/thakoon-paisley-tank-dress-multicolor-1/

Is it perfect? I don't think anything ever is. And, I've been staring at this for so long it's hard to be impartial. But am I happy? Yes. I'm sure this isn't everyone's cup of tea, but I do like the crazy bold pattern.

This project has taught me not to be afraid of working with expensive, special fabric. Fabric that I put up on a pedestal. The worst thing is that I might mess up. Well, I did that. I spent a lot of time trying to correct it, and in the end I created a dress that I would wear.  Boom. Done. Next project.

I have a ton of scraps of this print left! Not enough for a whole new dress, but enough for a lot of small projects. I wouldn't be surprised if I can manage a scarf, top and a whole lot of fancy bias tape out of this.

Now, I can get to all of the other projects I have lined up. I've been very good, forcing myself to not start them until I completed this (the Avocado Hoodie doesn't count because Saltspring and I really needed some time apart.)

My First Avocado Hoodie

 My first Avocado Hoodie:

I'm calling this my "first" because there's definitely going to be more!

Seriously, I love this!

Pattern: Avocado Hoodie by the amazingly talented Mari of Disparate Disciplines.  I choose Option B, non-overlapping hood with back pockets.

Fabric: Double-sided sweatshirt fleece from Vogue Fabrics in Evanston. It's chocolate brown on the outside and a lighter tan on the inside. I used green jersey left over from my Burda gathered top for the pocket lining.

Size and Modifications: I cut out a 6 at the top and graded to an 8. The only other intentional modification was that instead of using clear elastic to stabilize the bottom pocket edge, I used a strip of the fleece selvage. Time will tell how well this holds up.

By "intentional" modifications, I kind of made a few mistakes along the way with construction. The instructions are great, but I just spaced out from time to time and forgot to follow them in a few places. It's all on me. Most of the time, it just meant me spending some quality time with my seam ripper (we've been very close the past few weeks), but I will need to go back in an either redo the topstitching along the neck or tack down the facing. I was in the home stretch and didn't see that I was supposed to sew 3/4" from the neckline. I think mine is about 1/4".  It just means the facing sticks up a bit, but I'll probably go in and correct this soon.

Check out the back pockets!

I do have just a bit of bunching around my hips and lower back. The instructions do suggest using a fabric with 4-way stretch if you have a swayback or a proportionally larger bottom (Check and Check). They also suggest making sure you have positive ease. I haven't measured, but with jeans on I should be right at the finished garment hip measurements. None of this bugs me in the slightest because I think it still rocks and is super comfy, but I will probably grade my next one a bit larger at the hips, or pick a lighter weight fabric.

And can we talk about the thumb holes!

I'm thinking of stealing this pattern piece and adding it to other tops because I really do love this.

The best news, my husband wants his own hoodie! There are a few (hundred) projects ahead in line, and I'd have to figure a way to grade the men's pattern up for him because he has crazy huge shoulders, but it should be fun!

I'm just sad that the weather is so nice out, because I really want to wear this more (or at least for longer than this photo shoot)! This is some seriously warm fleece, and I'm pretty sure I'd die if I wore it outside this coming week.

Woo Hoo...I'm Back!

I'm back!  Wow, it's been a while. So much craziness has happened since my last post!  I've endured the move from hell, had a virus knock me out of commission for a few weeks and dealt with pet drama.  I also haven't been able to reach my sewing machine since the move until recently! So many boxes.

Someone's getting settled in at our new diggs. It's temporary, but don't tell her that.

While I haven't been sewing for over a month, I've been lurking on everyone's blog and living vicariously through the sewing projects of others. Thank you all! If I can't sew, at least I can admire those who can.

I've also been acquiring fabric. My hording abilities haven't been hurt by any of the above! It's quite therapeutic really, and I've picked up some awesome stuff that I can't wait to show everyone!

Last week I finally felt well enough, and was finally able to clear up enough space to sew again! It felt so "right"!

My project was McCalls M6744.  Full disclosure: I was heavily inspired/blatantly stole this idea from Gail's blog.  I love her version, and came across it when I was looking for a perfect summer dress.  I wanted something simple, lightweight and fuss free.  Something that I could make 10 of and just throw on in the summer.

Pattern: McCalls M6744, View A.

Size and Modifications: I cut a Small at the top and graded to a Medium at the waist.  The only other mod was to shorten the strap. I didn't realize it needed to be shorter until I had finished the neck and armholes. No matter, I folded the strap older and top stitched. It's not perfect, but I'm the only one who will notice. I'll need to shorten it further for my next version.

Fabric: Jersey from my favorite jersey source - the Vogue Fabrics remnant pile!

Final Verdict: I really like this. The elastic waist is actually my favorite detail. So simple, but I just think the casing looks great!  I made a minor error on the casing. When I finally figure out the instructions, I was half way through my own method. It's not bad, just a bit different.

Funny thing, shortly after I started this (I actually started before the move), I discovered Sewaholic's Saltspring dress.  Both have the shape I wanted (blousy top and flowing, loose skirt). Saltspring is next up in my queue, so we'll see what happens.

Finished Yellow Eyelet Lonsdale

My new camera charger finally arrived! It officially beat the return of my good camera from downstate. And, I was finally able to get my finished Lonsdale photos. (Unfortunately, now my computer with all of my photo editing software is on the fritz, and trying to use Photoshop in safe mode is a pain! Oh well, the show must go on.)

Here are the details:

Pattern: Sewaholic's Lonsdale

Fabric: 1 3/8 yards of yellow cotton eyelet from Joann Fabrics. I'm so proud of myself for getting a Lonsdale out of this. The underlining was white mystery fabric from Vogue Fabrics and the lining was combination of assorted white muslin fabrics.

Size and modifications: I cut a size 6 at the top and scaled to an 8 at the waist. I also made a swayback adjustment and pinched the bodice in a bit.   I made these modifications about two years ago when I made my first Lonsdale (back in my pre-blog days), and blindly followed the pattern this time. Luckily, it still fit perfectly!

I did not have enough fabric for the slash pockets. I really love that design feature, but it did need to be sacrificed. Instead I used the Cambie pocket (View B), but any pocket would work.  In hindsight, I should have checked out Sewaholic's tips for using less fabric.  She suggests making facings for the pockets as an alternative, and I probably would have had enough fabric to do that.

I also had to piece together a few pattern pieces since I was working with so little fabric.  The fashion fabric straps were just too long to layout in one piece, so those are pieced together. The same went for the lining and underlining. I used up a lot of muslin that was lying around, and feel pretty happy with myself for doing that.

Finally, I had to shorten the skirt quite a bit in order to get it to fit on the eyelet. I used the View A skirt pieces, and then shortened by another 4 inches.  I'm very happy with the results.  Still long enough to make me feel comfortable, but short enough to feel very summery.

What I learned trying to piece together a pattern with too little fabric:
1. Non-directional prints are your friend. Or, just don't be too picky about matching patterns.
2. Omit or modify pockets.
3. Splice together long pieces. No one will notice and the sewing police won't haul you away.
4. Shorten the skirt.
5. Keep your fingers crossed that the hack job you're about to do actually works.

Finished Denim Beignet

I was way too impatient to wear my new Beignet to wait until I sewed on belt loops. I may change my mind some day, but I'm good without them for now.

(The striped shirt in these pictures is one of my many Renfrews.)

This fabric is a lightweight stretch denim purchased at Vogue Fabrics, and was leftover from my first pair of Thurlows. The red lining was quilting cotton that I picked up at Joann's while shopping for buttons. It's not really suitable for lining, but it's red! And looks like fish scales! I couldn't pass up this awesomeness just because it was quilting cotton.

Also, I love the fact that I got to use red thread for everything! Red top stitching. Red buttonholes. Red serger thread. Love it! I also want to say that I love making buttonholes now. I've never had a machine that made them well (or at all) before my Husqvarna. It's made all the difference in the world.

Construction details: Someday, I'll be able to correctly judge my skirt size. I don't have this problem with dresses, just skirts. I try to take into account ease, finished measurements, the fact that there is a big difference between my waist and hip measurements, and the fact that I have to make sure the darn thing fits over my ass.  Even with all that in mind, I always end up choosing a few sizes too big and having to make major adjustments.

For this skirt, I cut a size 10 and started taking it in at the waist. I didn't compare my final measurements to the pattern, but I'd estimate that the waist is now closer to a size 2 or 4. The hips were taken in slightly in the process, and are probably somewhere between an 8 and 10.

"Design Features" (aka - screw ups): I accidentally cut the shell center back panel from the lining pattern piece instead of the correct shell piece. Unfortunately, that piece was about 4" shorter and I didn't have extra denim to recut. It's not bad, but it means that the skirt is just a little bit shorter than I prefer.

This is my second Beignet, and the second time I stopped following directions midway through construction. I don't know why, and I don't blame the pattern or instructions. Halfway through, I realize that I've stopped paying attention and I go off on my own. It also means that I completely ignore things like sewing twill tape along the waistband.  Someday...

The verdict: I love it. This skirt is going to be in heavy rotation this summer. I'm sure I'll make another Beignet, and am positive I'll stop paying attention to instructions, leave off the belt loops, and decide I need to go with a size 10 again because that's just how I roll.

Whole Lotta Rosy

To borrow a song title from AC/DC, I've been working on a Whole Lotta Rosy this weekend. Rosy Ladyshorts that is. I needed something quick and satisfying after spending so much time on my Thurlows.

If you haven't already, I highly recommend downloading this pattern from Cloth Habit. For me, the fit is amazing and I'm able to quickly whip up something that would rival any store bought pair of underwear in a very short period of time.

These are also a great way to use up extra stretch lace and trim. Everything except the magenta trim was scored on a trip to the Textile Discount Warehouse. The magenta trim came home with me from Vogue Fabrics when I went to purchase denim for my Thurlow wearable muslin. I can't remember if I purchased one or two yards of each stretch lace, but a little goes a long way. I believe that this is my third black pair and third and forth purple pairs, with some left over for at least one more. 

This was just a nice project to reset my sewing mojo and get me in the mood to tackle a more complex project again.

Another Cambie! This One is Wool!

I've finished the third in what will become my Cambie Quartet. (The fourth will be the white floral Cambie that I mentioned here.) I was so excited to photograph and post pictures that I haven't even trimmed all the thread of removed all of the cat fur yet!

 

I have a few minor seam puckering issues in the back, but I feel that I can either steam these out or make a few minor tweaks to the back seam to perfect the fit.

I purchased the wool from Vogue Fabrics. (As always, it was in the remnant section.) I don't exactly know what type of wool it is, maybe wool crepe?  I'll be honest, I wouldn't know wool crepe if it bit me on the ass. I hear it's wonderful and I would really like to work with it, but I've never actually sought it out. This fabric has a nice drape, slightly woven texture, but does not fray (or only very, very minor fraying).

I was all set to cut out and make another Burda pencil skirt with this wool.  The pattern calls for 1 yard, but I had 1 3/4 yards and I didn't want the extra fabric to go to waste! So, I decided a more yardage-appropriate pattern should be used to take advantage of this wonderful fabric.  Cambie to the rescue, yet again.

Production notes: Like all of my Cambies, I cut a size 6 for the top and graded to a size 8 at the hips. I also made my standard swayback and shoulder modifications, mentioned here.

I decided on the "less sweet" straight neck version because I wanted this to be a good business/work event dress.  I also wanted to simplify the straps to make it easier to layer under jackets or cardigans.  Instead of the gathered shell pieces, I used the lining pattern piece for both the shell and lining for a straight strap.

The lining was wine-colored mystery satin fabric that I've had in my stash since high school.  It's so beautiful and think there must be some silk in the fabric content.  Almost too pretty to use just as a lining, but I like that extra touch of luxury.

I also scraped together enough lining fabric to make bias tape for Hong Kong seams on the shell. I was really running low after cutting out the pattern pieces. (Not the best picture, but don't you think the cat fur really makes this shot?)

This dress just screams for a touch of color, and I love the lining fabric.  With the few scraps that I have left, I plan to either purchase a belt kit or try to pull enough scraps together to make a cute sash. 

I love that I can style this with so many other pieces. It's a great, simple basic dress to have in my wardrobe.

(Note 5/19/13: I've since returned to Vogue, and am now proud to say that I know what wool crepe is. This isn't it. I managed to find a very similar bolt of fabric called "novelty wool", if I remember the name correctly.) 

Knit Taffy

I remember reading on a style blog that it's a good practice to "shop" your own closet - try to look at the clothes in your closet the same way you would look at clothes in a store.  I decided I should take that same approach with my fabric stash the other night when trying to decide on my next sewing project. It was fun to rediscover and better appreciate some of the fabric that I have instead of rushing out to buy something new for a project.

I came across a see-through knit print that I purchased from Vogue Fabrics. I actually think this was one of the rare times that I didn't pick up a knit from the remnant section, but the fabric bolt was lurking close by. (Basically, most of my casual wardrobe comes from the Vogue remnant section these days.) I decided a while back that this would be perfect for Colette's Taffy pattern. Sure, the pattern calls for a fine fabric like chiffon, but I'd get way more use out of a knit.

I'm pretty sure that I purchased the Colette Sewing Handbook specifically for the Taffy pattern. Maybe it was the sleeves that caught my attention, or maybe it was the striped bias binding in their sample that made me stand up and take notice. So fluffy, so flirty, so cute.

I cut a size 4 but added a bit of length at the bottom. I didn't measure it, but probably about 1 to 2 inches. In hindsight, I should have gone longer.  I also didn't flip or trace the pattern.  I like to live on the edge and just folded the fabric in half on a diagonal in two corners and cut my piece.  It's knit, it will stretch, and it will be forgiving if not cut exactly on the bias.  I'd obviously be much more careful if making this with a more delicate fabric.

I honestly did not even notice that this pattern had a back tie until halfway through sewing.  For me it was all about the sleeves and bias trim.

 

I used an old, yellow shirt for my bias binding. The shirt has been in my scrap pile forever. I never wore it, but the fabric was too interesting to throw away.  Of course, I probably should have researched the finished dimensions of the 1/2" double fold bias binding called for in the pattern.  Apparently, end ends up being 1/4" wide when folded and sewn.  Ooops!

I also love that the entire shirt has French seams! It did add time to the construction, but I love how the finished garment is so neat professional on the inside.

And action shots:

The verdict: I like it, but I'm not sure if this shirt is exactly "me".  It's cute on the dress form, but maybe cuter there than on me? But then, I've been saying that about a lot of clothes lately.

If I were to make another, I'd move the ties up so that they would cinch the shirt at my natural waist and I would add more length. I personally like shirts that fall lower, and think they are more flattering on me.  To me, it also has an 80's vibe that I am almost ashamed to say I've been gravitating towards lately.

Never fear, it won't languish in my closet. I'll still wear it with pride and I'm sure the style will grow on me a bit more.