Kimono Tee Time (Part II)

I've been meaning to post this project for a while now. Funny thing... I had the bright idea to make my friends matching Avocado hoodies for their upcoming wedding. Mind you, this was about a week and a half before the wedding. Brilliant, I know. I printed patterns and purchased fabric but wasn't able to start until last Monday. The wedding was on Friday. I managed to bust out both hoodies in 4 days!  Damn that was crazy, but so happy I finished in time. Of course I don't have pictures, but maybe I'll be able to take some soon.

So, it's because of that small little side project that I haven't had a chance to write up a proper post until now for part two of my kimono top binge, the Burda Kimono Top:

Before my official "I'm expanding my horizons and making something that's not a Renfrew" experiment [link], this was probably the only other top pattern that I've made in the past year or so.

Pattern:  Burda 7866

Fabric:  If you guess Vogue Fabric remnant room, you'd be correct! This is a very pretty, soft wine-colored knit. It's dressier than the t-shirt fabrics I normally pick up.

Size and Modifications:  I cut a straight size 10. I've had this pattern cut out for a few years now, and I probably should go up a size, at least in the hips.  Some day...  I also left out the belt because I would just lose it anyway.

I promised my photographer extraordinaire, my husband, that I would include this action shot (even though I look like I'm missing an arm):

And the back:

It's really a simple, versatile pattern. Not too many bells and whistles, but a nice basic top that I know will end up in heavy rotation.

Vogue Remnant Fun

Wow.. it's been a while and I feel like so much has happened!  I just wish that "so much" had included more sewing .  I just need to remember that blog is my hobby and not my job, so I need to cut myself some slack.

I've still managed to keep to my resolution to do one crafty related project per week.  Most of them were mending projects, and not really blog-worthy. I'm trying to take better care of the clothes that I have, including tackling the dreaded mending pile. There were a couple of other projects that will make their way here at a later date.

So... what's been going on.  A little over a week ago, I met up with some amazing Chicago sewing bloggers at Vogue Fabrics! (Check out Sally's blog post at the quirky peach for a great picture of all of us!) It was so much fun and so great to connect with such talented ladies!

Oh Vogue remnant section, I just can't quit you.  I have no will power when it comes to this room.

Some of these are already marked for projects.  The white mystery fabric will be used for linking my third Cambie. I already have some beautiful floral fabric waiting. The navy pinstripe will be another Burda pencil skirt for work, identical to the one I made in this post.  The roll of lavender jersey called to me because I saw so much of this color in the White House Black Market catalog and had to have some.

The purple print is an amazingly soft polyester that would be perfect for some fancy sleepwear. I could not stop petting this fabric. I think Burda's Jane pattern might be perfect:

Source http://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns/jane

I spied the pink knit after my remnant haul had been paid and stored in my car. I could not resist the gold threads. Ooohh...Shiny!  Will it be a cowl sweater? A sweater dress? Oh the possibilities.  The picture doesn't do it justice.

Of course, what do I do with all that new fabric? Put it aside and make something from my stash! I'll post those pictures tomorrow.

Burda Kimono

Ever since I saw this Mood blog post featuring a Thakoon silk print kimono, I've wanted one.  This is seriously amazing.  However, I've been trying to talk myself out of buying the fabric for it since it's expensive ($35/yard) and newly responsible me is now saving up for a house. Stash fabric to the rescue!

I found a Burda kimono pattern that I thought would work reasonably well and decided to finally use a very thin silk fabric that I've had in my stash for probably over 15 years. (Wow, has it been that long?) This was acquired back in high school during shopping trip with my friend and her mom to Devon Avenue.  If you're in Chicago and you've never been to Devon,you really should.  It's an amazing collection of Indian and Pakistani stores for blocks and blocks, including a few fabric stores.  This silk been in my stash for years waiting for the perfect project, and reminding me of a happy afternoon.

 
I'm not sure exactly what type of silk this is, but I was surprised by how little trouble I had while sewing.  I expected it to be a nightmare and my machine to snag and catch it like crazy.  Nope, this silk was pretty awesome to sew.

I probably had about two yards, and really wanted to take advantage of the floral border print.  I cut out a size 38 and did no alterations other than omitting the pockets due to lack of fabric.  I also had to use some extra blue lining fabric that I had lying around for the belt, but I really like the color contrast.

This is one of the first projects in a very long time that I did not serge.  French seams all the way baby!  It took extra time, but it was worth it.

Some "action shots" for you. I think this pattern is definitely a winner. Someday, I hope to make the Thakoon silk dream version but until then, I really do love my new kimono.

Burda Pencil Skirt

A couple of weeks ago, I put my Cambie aside and downloaded Burda's Princess Seam Pencil Skirt

Source: http://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns/princess-seam-pencil-skirt-042012

I wanted a pencil skirt for my upcoming work trip and thought this pattern would be the perfect use for the teal wool from my stash. I was drawn to the princess seams and thought they would be more flattering on me than darts.

I made a muslin of the largest size, 44. I the only adjustment I made was to take in each seam 1 to 2 centimeters at the waist. Just to go off on a tangent for a second - who does Burda size their patterns for? I'm definitely not a stick, but I don't consider myself that big either (not counting the extra junk in the trunk).  Why am I cutting out the largest pattern size?  Okay, rant over :)

Here's the completed skirt paired with one of my many Renfrew tops. This was completely unintentional, but my color choices are very similar to the original Burda image. (Posing with my black cat would have completed the look.)

The skirt went together like a dream.  It's official, I love sewing with wool felt. (I'm pretty sure that's what this fabric is.) It presses beautifully and I didn't have to finish the seams which is a huge deal to me.  I'll also be able to easily take the skirt in if necessary.

The pattern is very easy to put together.  There's no lining and the fabric is simply folded over to create the waist band facing.  Because the wool holds a crease so well, I didn't feel the need to sew this facing down anywhere except the zipper. If I had used a lighter weight fabric, I probably would have tacked it down at each seam.

My zipper is a bit crazy toward the bottom, but I really don't care. I'm probably the only person who will notice this anyway.

I can officially cross another item of "The List"! I will definitely reuse this pattern and have some newly purchased black wool lined up waiting for an opening in my sewing queue.

Burda Top - Part II

Guess who finished their second Burda gathered top?

That's right, I did!

I love the gathered sleeve detail. (Sorry, the picture is a bit grainy.)

And, check out that awesome seam.  I don't know what it is, but sometimes I just have to step back and admire a finished seam.  There's something perfect about the evenness of of stitches and the fact that I look at it and think that it looks identical (or better) to that of a store bought garment.

It's not flashy, but it fits into my wardrobe beautifully.

I used the Burda Gathered Top Pattern again and cut out a size 40, again.  The fabric was dark green jersey that I picked up for a steal at the Textile Discount Outlet.

Here's what I did differently this time around:  I pinched out about 1.5" from the neckline of each pattern piece.  (I didn't take pictures of the pattern adjustment because it wasn't pretty to look at.)  I also shortened the neckband, which helps keep it in place while it's worn.  The finished shirt kept the oversized neckline that I wanted, but did not stretch it to 1980s proportions like my previous shirt.

Next up - I'm about half way through sewing my Gram's house dress and need to crank out a pair of lounge pants that I promised my husband before I can move on to "The List".  I'll share details about "The List" with you on a later post.

Fabric Cutting Craziness

Guess who had a burst of energy this weekend and cut out fabric for three new projects!

I really surprised myself because cutting out pattern pieces is my least favorite part of the sewing process, and I never cut out more than one project at once.  I'm not sure why.  Maybe because the process isn't that exciting, or maybe because it's impossible to layout and cut any fabric in my house without having to navigate around my cat Floozy. She's never met a pattern she didn't want to lay on.

That's right - check out that strategic use of brown paper as a decoy.  I've also tried decoy fabric with varying degrees of success. (And yes, I cut most things out on the floor since it's the largest, clearest surface I have available.)

The dark green fabric in the top image will be my second Burda Gathered Top.  I've taken in a few inches from the neckline, so I'm excited to see how it will turn out.

The tool print fleece is set to become another pair of lounge pants for my husband (McCall's 3019) and the blue snowflake print fleece for a house dress for my grandma (McCall's Easy 2250). Both patterns are no longer in print.

I have a number of much fancier projects in the queue, but wanted to finish up a few quick items first.

Finished Burda Gathered Top

I work from home and make it a point to at not wear my pajamas to work. I change into something other than PJs before logging in for the day, but that "something" definitely isn't fancy. Lately, my standard work wardrobe of sweats left much to be desired and I needed to make some changes.

Enter a scoop neck sweatshirt I saw, and have been obsessing about, in a magazine.  It wasn't anything fancy - an oversized yet slightly fitted top with raglan sleeves.  I took to calling it "classy lounge wear" and I wanted it!  It would be an improvement over my standard work wardrobe of grubby sweats. 

I searched just about every pattern company website I could find looking for something similar and came across Burda's Gathered Top #119 . It was perfect for me and gave me a base I could work with.

Burda Gathered Top #119 http://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns/gathered-top-012013

I'm not always a fan of print out patterns, but had no choice. It's nothing against the pattern companies, I just hate taking the time to tape all of the sheets together. Surprisingly, this went together very fast (for me), and I if I had started sewing sooner I would have completed this top in one night. When it was all said and done, it probably took me about three hours to complete (not counting the time it took to assemble the pattern.) This project may turn me into a print at home fan after all.

I actually debated between the 38 and 40, but then decided to go with the 40 (equivalent to US 8) but not add the full seam allowance.  I thought this was genius and would give me the fit I desired. The other modifications I made were to omit the bottom ruffle and not cut the neck band on the bias. The gathered sleeves were not in the original inspiration sweatshirt, but I really liked the design detail and decided to leave it in.

The fabric was taupe jersey I purchased at the Textile Discount Warehouse in Chicago. I'm really becoming a fan of that place, and of sewing knits. I used to be terrified of the fabric, but it's amazing what a difference a new machine with a working zigzag stitch makes!

The verdict - I love it and think it's not bad for not really paying attention to the seam allowances (or sewing instructions for that matter). The scoop neck is a little too wide, or at least wider than I intended and it does give me that 80s vibe, but it's still completely wearable.

Hello 1980s! I just need some legwarmer and neon hoop earrings to complete the look.

I'll definitely be making another version of this. I have some similar dark green jersey that I also purchased at the Textile Discount Warehouse.  For the next one, I'll work on making the neck smaller by taking in a couple inches from all of the pieces at the neckline. I'll also make the neck band slightly smaller in order to get the neck to lay flatter on me.