Who's Afraid of the Big Bad Thurlow? - Part 2

Well, I didn't end up cutting out my good Mood wool yet, but after a number of mistakes and fitting issues I finally finished my first pair of Thurlow trousers:

I'd also like to mention that during the fitting process, I've never stared at so many pictures of my ass for so long in my entire life. I went through five fitting variations, and couldn't get the darn thing to fit just right in the back. I took pictures to try to help diagnose fitting problems, hence the excessive ass staring.

I give you -  ass (Thurlow) evolution:

Here's the brief summary:

1. I cut and sewed a straight size 8.  The front looked and fit fine, but there was some serious bunching going on in the back.  I get it, there's a lot of surface area for the fabric to deal with. Time to make adjustments.

2. Extensive internet research led me to add some length to the crotch in the back. Lazy me didn't want to cut a whole new pattern piece, not when I could use masking tape instead.

3. Okay, the small wedge in #2 seemed to help a bit, so lengthening the crotch more is sure to help!  I actually don't think this version was an improvement, but let's keep going forward.

Here's where I gave up on internet research; nothing was exactly what I needed.  I think this is where my "too much" information problem came into play.  When I was a blissfully ignorant sewer, I would pinch and tuck patterns like crazy.  I wanted to go back to relying on that instinct. In hindsight, maybe not such a good move.

4.  This was an attempt to take in fabric under the offending area.  I always have to make a sway back adjustment on my clothes, so maybe I need a "sway ass" adjustment for these? (Okay, I know it's not called a sway ass adjustment, but the combination of frustration and lack of sleep made this hilarious at the time.)  Image 4 shows just the right side pinned up and a bit of improvement.

5. Post sway ass adjustment. I had to abandon my masking tape and cut a new piece. I also scooped out the crotch seam a bit. It needs more, but I feel like I was almost there and ready to cut my fabric for my wearable muslin.

Fast forward about a week, a lot of swearing and me cutting out the waistband backwards, I give you the final version:

I'm trying to focus on the positives instead of the glaring fit issues. I actually think the construction looks good and I love the welt pockets. I don't think I'm going to add belt loops, because I'm not sure how much wear these will see outside of the house. 

The negatives? The fit of course. There's too much room in the crotch in front and still too much bunching in back.  I also needed to adjust the grainline because the side seam curves toward the back. I have no clue how to do this correctly, yet.  

I think I need to start from the beginning and invest in a good fitting book or online class. I'm not sure exactly where to go with this. Going down to a size 6 would probably help because I think this version is a bit too big for me, and I like pants tighter.

All in all, I don't they are bad for my first attempt. I have a lot of work to do to perfect these, but the end product will be worth it because I do love this pattern!

Interlude

I'm still working on my Thurlows, I promise! Here's proof:

Just ignore the fact that I sewed these pieces to the wrong side of the fabric. Oops. Right now, there's been a lot of swearing at muslins and staring at pictures of my butt and other people's butts to try to work out my fitting issues. I'm currently working on a wearable muslin and yes, I broke down and purchased fabric for it. I just didn't trust cutting out my good fabric without making a full test first. For better or worse, it should be complete and ready to share in the next day or two. In the meantime, there are a few non-trouser things to report.

Britex Fabrics, my favorite fabric store in San Francisco, mentioned me on their blog! You can check out the post here.  It's so exciting! I've never felt so much like a celebrity before in my life, and I'm so thankful to them for the shout out!  Now, how to I convince my job that they need to send me to San Francisco soon so that I can make a fabric run? Until then, I'm left to longingly peruse their website.  Don't you think this fabric would make an amazing pair of Thurlows? I've been looking at it for weeks now. (Full disclosure: I have no willpower and purchased some. It was on sale.)

Source http://www.britexfabrics.com/slubby-bittersweet-chocolate-stretch-cotton.html#

I also got a bit bored between my muslins and cut out fabric for three pairs of Rosy Ladyshorts.  I'll try to sew a pair or two if I need a break from my Thurlow marathon.

On the Thurlow front, I didn't think it possible but I'm actually enjoying sewing all of the "fiddly bits" of the pattern. It means I have to take the sewing process slow, which is a good thing. I'm trying to make a conscious effort to focus on enjoying the sewing process and not on the end product. As the great philosopher Neil Peart once wrote, "The point of the journey is not to arrive".

Who's Afraid of the Big Bad Thurlow?

Um, I think I might be...

Crazy, right? I don't think that these pants are the most complicated garment I've ever sewn. Not that I consider them a beginner project, I just think I've tackled more complex projects without a care in the world. I've been putting off sewing this pattern for months now, and I'm trying to figure out why because I really do want a pair of Thurlows!
 
I think I'm seriously psyching myself out.  When I was young, I made a few pairs of pants. Nothing difficult and they fit "okay", but that was before I learned that you could, and should, alter patterns for correct fit.  I also make lounge pants all the time. I'm a rockstar when it comes to lounge pants! I'm not sure if that's really a thing to brag about, but there you go.  If you don't believe me, check this out:

These were all 2011 Christmas gifts, using my go-to pattern McCall's 3019. Of course, the only fit issues with these are length and cutting the right size elastic for the waistband.

I think the problem is that I now have too much knowledge. I've read so many blogs where people struggled to perfect their pants fit through through multiple iterations. I don't just mean Thurlows; there are many pants-related fitting posts out there.  Now I'm worried about crotch length, the pants being too tight, or too loose, having to make a gazillion muslins to get it right, etcetera, etcetera.

I cut out most of the pieces that I would need for the muslin weeks ago. I think I'm just worried about messing up my awesome Mood fabric that I've earmarked for this project.  Couldn't you just make a wearable muslin? Well, yes I could but I don't currently have suitable fabric in my stash and I'm trying not to buy new fabric until I use up some of my old stuff first. (I do this every few months, just to see how long it will last.)

So, no more procrastinating. Work permitting, I'm going to start sewing up my muslin tonight! I'm not going to have major fit issues, and I'll be cutting out and not ruining my awesome striped wool this weekend!

Sew me!

And if I mess up, it's only fabric right? It sure isn't doing me any good in a box on a shelf.

"The List"

I'm sure most sewers have a list of projects they want to make.  I have not just a list but "The List".  I sometimes call it my bucket list, but then I think referring to these as the projects I want to do before I die sounds way too dramatic for a list of a few dresses. But then, there's nothing wrong with a bit of drama from time to time.

A small part of "The List" was based on patterns I wanted to sew. Most of the entries started with the fabric - I've just purchased this fabric that I had to have or I would die (there's that drama again)! So now what should I do with it? The latter reason is why I'm going to show you fabric pictures instead of patterns.

So, without further adieu, I give you "The List".

1. Lady Grey Coat:

I have wanted to sew the Lady Grey Coat from Colette Patterns ever since I saw some of the wonderful versions by other bloggers.  It took me a while to find the perfect fabric, but I finally purchased some absolutely beautiful wool last year from Britex in San Francisco.  Pictures do not do this justice! I can't remember if it was called Norwegian or Icelandic Wool, but it has the most fantastic texture.  I'm almost afraid to cut into it.  When the time comes, I'm going all out on this and incorporate every couture tailoring technique I can find.


2. White Floral Cambie:

It took a while for the Cambie pattern from Sewaholic to grow on me. Now, it's grown on me so much that I'm planing to sew two of them.  This one will be the "less sweet" or straight neckline version of this dress. This fabric is from Gorgeous Fabrics.


3. Navy Eyelet Dress:

Back in September, I made it my mission to find some dark blue eyelet for a dress.  Once again, Britex to the rescue!  I've been debating on the perfect pattern for this and right now, Collette's Chantilly is the leading contender.


4. Watermelon Stretch Cotton Cambie Dress:

This is the second Cambie on my list and yes, the fabric was Britex once again. This time it was an online purchase. (See the Britex bag hanging on the wall in the background? That's right, I'm that hardcore about this store.)  I became fixated with this fabric after reading this blog post. I'm happy to say that this project is almost finished! The sweetheart neckline that I thought I could never wear looks really cute in person and I think it actually looks good on me.


5. Blue Wool Skirt:

I picked this wool up during an excursion to one of the few remaining Hancock Fabrics in the Chicago area.  (I really miss having more of these around.) I originally intended to replicate a skirt I saw on the Anthropologie website, but now am not sure.  Do I go A-line? Pencil skirt? So many decisions in life!


6. Brown, Cream and Navy Striped Thurlow Pants:

Let me tell you a story - the year was 2011 and I had just purchased one of my very first Groupons.  It was to Mood and I was so excited to be purchasing fabric from the same place that the Project Runway designers shop!  After debating for days, I decided on this striped wool for a pair of trousers. They even sent me a Mood bag! I was in heaven.  It took me until Sewaholic's Thurlow pattern came out to decide exactly what pattern to use. I'm holding off a bit on this project because I'm trying to lose a few pounds and want to make sure that I fit into whatever size I decide to sew up :)


7. Black Evening Dress:

No photograph can do this fabric justice.  It's from Gorgeous Fabrics, and like the name says,  it is gorgeous!  Ever see a fabric and not know what you want to sew with it but just know that you have to have it no matter what?  That was this fabric.  Since the purchase, I've been doing some research and have really been drawn to some 1950s vintage dress styles.  I'd like to capture that feeling with this dress.  The leading pattern contender is "The Sultry Sheath" from Gertie's New Book for Better Sewing.


8. Kitty Bed:

I never promised that everything on "The List" would be clothes or would be fancy. I previously blogged about this kitty bed. It was really nice to be able to cross one item off of my list!


9. Hanging Towel Bag:

Again, definitely not in the fancy category, but something I could really use.  I don't have a picture of this handy, but this pattern and the kitty bed above are from the book One Yard Wonders.


10. Sequin Dress:

I have no pattern, no fabric and no occasion to wear this. I just know I WANT ONE!


11. Brown Lace Dress:

This brown lace purchased from Vogue Fabrics in Evanston, IL.  The original intent was a lace shirt, but then saw a brown lace dress in a store with an exposed metal zipper. And,just like that, plans changed. No pattern yet, but this I'd say some of the more exciting projects are higher on the list so I have time to find something.


12. Dress with my own custom printed fabric:

I've been admiring the designs on Spoonflower. I'd love to try my hand at coming up with my own pattern worthy of being made into a garment.  It's not the highest priority since I have a lot of other fabric to get through first.


13. Retro Apron for my Mom:

She wants and apron and I have a great apron pattern, somewhere.  It's a sign, don't you think? Now, I just have to figure out where I put the pattern, and what fabric I should use.


So that is "The List". I'm excited to see how much of it I can get through this year!