Completed Silk Saltspring!

Well, the monkey is finally off my back (or baboon off my ass, if you remember my earlier post). I finished my silk Saltspring!

This one nearly did me in! After my first attempt (see link above) I spent a lot of quality time, just me and my seam ripper, completely taking the skirt and lining apart. I spent hours more trying to figure out exactly the best way to re-cut the skirt to avoid unfortunate pattern placement and also work with the fabric that I had.

Pattern: Saltspring from Sewaholic

Fabric: Thakoon paisley silk crepe de chine from Mood Fabrics and black Ambiance Rayon Bemberg lining from Vogue Fabrics.

Construction Techniques and Modifications: I cut a 4 at top graded to 8 at the waist. I swapped the ties for thicker straps and added a skirt lining. I used French seams for the outer fabric and lining, and used strips of the lining selvage to stabilize my zipper edges.  For the zipper, I used the Sewaholic tutorial for covering the zipper end (I love this little detail):

For the skirt, my goal was to create a wall of design noise instead of having a focal point with a perfectly centered pattern (if that makes sense).  To do that, I cut the fabric on the bias(ish), taking care to make sure the pattern motifs were away from the danger zones (In addition to the unfortunate back pattern placement, my first version had one area that looked very much like a diagram of a uterus centered directly front and center. I've managed to avoid that this time around.)  I also didn't worry about pattern matching on the skirt.

One source of inspiration was this dress below. I also saw on other Thakoon outfits using the same fabric that weren't always centered or cut on grain. (Some were, some weren't.) Every time, it just magically worked and I am in awe of his pattern placement genius.

Inspiration for re-cut skirt. Source: http://www.lyst.com/clothing/thakoon-paisley-tank-dress-multicolor-1/

Is it perfect? I don't think anything ever is. And, I've been staring at this for so long it's hard to be impartial. But am I happy? Yes. I'm sure this isn't everyone's cup of tea, but I do like the crazy bold pattern.

This project has taught me not to be afraid of working with expensive, special fabric. Fabric that I put up on a pedestal. The worst thing is that I might mess up. Well, I did that. I spent a lot of time trying to correct it, and in the end I created a dress that I would wear.  Boom. Done. Next project.

I have a ton of scraps of this print left! Not enough for a whole new dress, but enough for a lot of small projects. I wouldn't be surprised if I can manage a scarf, top and a whole lot of fancy bias tape out of this.

Now, I can get to all of the other projects I have lined up. I've been very good, forcing myself to not start them until I completed this (the Avocado Hoodie doesn't count because Saltspring and I really needed some time apart.)

Pattern Placement Fail

I've been plugging away on my Thakoon silk Saltspring. Construction has been going very slow, but it's been so rewarding. I've been enjoying the process so much (except for a few swearing episodes hear and there). The fabrics were easier to sew than I anticipated and pressed great.

Well, last night was the first time I've been able to try on the almost finished dress. I only have a hem left. And... Epic. Pattern. Placement. Failure. 

So, I love the front:

And the back?  Guess where this design falls? Use your imagination because there's no way I'm going to model this. :-)

You might say "this is unfortunate". Or, the phrase baboon ass might come to mind. Either or, they're both accurate.

Even with this unfortunate turn of events, I will say that I'm so happy with my pattern matching. Really, one must laugh and look at the positives when one is presented with the reality of a design flaw of this magnitude. I don't know how I could have overlooked this.

I've been back and forth trying to convince myself that everything is okay, and asking my family to weigh in. Despite them saying it looks fine, I know it doesn't. I'm trying to convince myself otherwise, but in my heart I know what must be done. I'm going to redo the back of the skirt. It's going to be a major pain in the ass (no pun intended), but I need to not feel self conscious in something that I've invested so much time and energy in. This is supposed to be an epically awesome dress, damn it! 

I'm not sure if I'll have to completely unpick the entire back, waist and zipper (probably) or find a shortcut and only partially unpick, but I know it will be worth it. I just need to wait for the fabric to come in, and will probably console myself with some quick, easy projects in the meantime.

Has anyone else encountered "inappropriate" pattern placement on a finished or partially finished garment and if so, what did you do?

I Need A Drink

Or seven.

That can only mean one thing - I started cutting out my Thakoon silk for my next Saltspring dress. Was I smart and got a stable, easy to handle silk?  Oh no. Did I mention that this is crepe de chine?

I absolutely love the fabric and nothing was going to keep me from buying it, but I did not think this thing through! I have no rotary cutter, no pattern weights, and I'm too damn lazy to trace out a full pattern piece to avoid cutting on a fold. It's just me, a relatively sharp pair of scissors and some brand new silk pins.  I was just lucky that the cats stayed away.

That's right, I like to live dangerously (or stupidly, you be the judge).

The slightly sheer nature of the fabric helped me out. I tried to align the pattern motifs to the gridlines on my cutting board. I was also good and only cut through single layers of fabric.  I would cut half of the pattern and then flip it and sometimes the fabric itself over to help align the pattern.  I don't think it turned out half bad.

But seriously, the only thing that kept me from hitting the bottle was the knowledge that there was a 100% certainty that I would mess this up under the influence. Even one sip, and there would be no hope. Sober, I had a 50-50 chance :)

Here's the front:

And the back:

My strategy was to to focus on choosing and centering design motifs and not worry about matching the pattern at the side seams. The pattern is so busy that I don't think it's going to stand out. I've also been looking at dresses online that use this fabric, and side seam pattern matching is not even attempted in a few styles.

Since I'm a sadist, I chose a nice slippery rayon as lining. Funny thing is that I'm really not all that worried about the actual sewing. I trust that my machine can handle it.  Cutting out the pattern pieces has always been my least favorite part, so it's no wonder that agonized over this bit.

Finished Floral Saltspring

Here it is, my completed first Saltspring dress. I love everything about this!

Technically this is my "wearable muslin", so that I can perfect the fit before cutting into my Thakoon silk. 

Pattern: Saltspring Dress from Sewaholic.

Fabric: The fabric is from an extra large rayon dress that I picked up for a couple of bucks at my local Village Discount Thrift store.  It's 100% rayon, and so soft! I was in a "I want Hawaiian inspired fabric" mood when scoping the place out that day, and this fit the bill perfectly.

I also used a light pink cotton batiste (not pictured) left over from other projects for the pockets and bodice lining.

Before and After

Size and Modifications:  I cut a 4 for the top and graded to an 8 at the hips. I normally also do a swayback adjustment, but chose not this time. I figured that blousing effect would negate the need to make this adjustment. Looking at the pictures, I'm not sure. I think the dress still looks great, and am not sure if the lack of adjustment is noticeable to anyone but me, but I still might make the swayback for my silk version.

I did not have enough fabric to cut the flared skirt and had to adjust it to a dirndl skirt. It's not absolutely ideal, but also probably not that noticeable and I have to work with what I have. Also, for the purposes of this "muslin", was more important for me to test out the fit on top.

I did not have enough dress fabric to cut the lining pieces, and used some leftover pink cotton batiste from my stash.

For the ties, the original dress had waist ties, which I repurposed as is for the back ties. I did cut and sew new front ones. For my next version, I might shorten them a bit, or go with one of the many strap variations I've seen floating around the blogosphere.

Final Verdict: Love, Love, LOVE this! Still going back and forth over potential adjustments, but nothing that makes me like my first version any less.

The location for these photos was Gallery Park in Glenview, IL.  I call it Cormorant Park.  Here's why:

Double-crested Cormorants. Love them! (I'm kind of a bird nerd.)

Okay, deep breaths.. it's time to cut into my silk now.  Wish me luck!

Saltspring vs. McCalls M6744

I came across the Saltspring pattern from Sewaholic right after starting my McCalls M6744, and it was love at first sight! The pattern was similar to the McCalls pattern I had already fallen in love with, but so much more. I'd call it the fancier, big sister to 6744 (view A). I love top of Saltspring - the outer fabric is longer and sewn over a shorter lining, causing magical blousing without having to fuss with a belt. The skirt is also flared, instead of the more dirndl skirt style of 6744.

Both View A's are similar, but designed for different fabrics. McCalls calls for a stretch knit while Saltspring is for lightweight, wovens.

I also found the PERFECT fabric for my Saltspring. Or more accurately, I found the perfect pattern for the beautiful Thakoon silk paisley print that I have been lusting over for months online at Mood! There are not enough exclamation marks in the world to describe how much I loved and wanted this fabric. This new sewing pattern combined with me needing a serious dose of retail therapy after my move from hell sealed the deal.

The color is a bit off and I didn't take time to straighten out the pattern, but you still get the idea of how awesome this is!

But, there was no way I was going to use up my $50 silk on an untried pattern.  I recently purchased a very large rayon dress from my local thrift store that will serve as the basis for my wearable muslin. I was in a "must have a Hawaiian print fabric" phase, and I got lucky!

 

My first time sewing 100% Rayon.  It's so soft! I'm in love.

I'll have to make some modifications because I won't have enough fabric to make the flared skirt, but my main concern is testing out the fit of the top. Let's see how this goes!