White Eyelet Hazel

In case you haven't noticed, things have been pretty slow around Chez Makizy.  We're currently packing up and moving to temporary digs at the end of the month, which unfortunately doesn't leave me with too much quality sewing time. Oh well, it's just a step toward our dream of owning our own house and me having my own sewing room! Things should pick back up in August.

Ms Macy is always ready to take time off from packing and supervise whatever sewing takes place.

The other good news, my laptop is finally back up an running. I have a sweet new hard drive and reinstalled Adobe, so I'm ready to blog!

This poor Hazel has been in a state of being almost done for about 2 weeks now. I finally finished yesterday:

I have to say that I had the hardest time photographing this dress! There is nothing clean in my apartment at the moment because of my packing. Also my back porch, where I've been taking most of my pictures lately, is being painted and off limits.  This was my best picture, taken before the dress was hemmed.

Pattern: Colette's Hazel 

Fabric: White cotton eyelet with a mint green cotton underlying (quilting cotton and proud of it), both from Joann Fabric

Size and Modifications: For the bodice I cut a size 2 in width, but cut the length of a size 6 (if that makes sense). I really wanted to avoid the bodice appearing too short. I know that's how the pattern is drafted, and I do have a higher waist, but I didn't want to appear cut off or have the dress be too baby-doll like. I cut a size 6 for the skirt but cut the size 18 length. I needed extra length and know I'd never wear it if it was too short.

Instead of gathers, I went with pleats for the skirt. Since my fabric was a bit stiff, I wanted to cut down on some of the bulk at the waist and figured that pleats would work better.

Mint Green Underlining

Thoughts: I still don't think Colette patterns are quite "me". I love them on people, and I am still going to keep trying, but not sure I'm in love with this. I'm definitely "in like" with it.

See how happy I look?  I wasn't kidding when I said earlier that I had a hard time taking good photos of this. This is probably the best front facing shot of me wearing the finished dress.

Guess I'm just more photogenic from the back :)

I read a lot of reviews about the pointy bust darts and yep, those suckers are pointy! I may have to do some further adjustments here.  I also should have cut a larger size skirt.  This one is my fault. It's not tight, but I don't like the way it puffs so much around my hips.  Not that I am against that, in the right dress, but this one should have been more flowy.

I think if I make this again, and I probably will, I'll add a waist band to further lengthen the bodice. I'm happy with the length, but want more. I'll also either cut a larger size skirt or try using a skirt from a different pattern.

Finished Denim Beignet

I was way too impatient to wear my new Beignet to wait until I sewed on belt loops. I may change my mind some day, but I'm good without them for now.

(The striped shirt in these pictures is one of my many Renfrews.)

This fabric is a lightweight stretch denim purchased at Vogue Fabrics, and was leftover from my first pair of Thurlows. The red lining was quilting cotton that I picked up at Joann's while shopping for buttons. It's not really suitable for lining, but it's red! And looks like fish scales! I couldn't pass up this awesomeness just because it was quilting cotton.

Also, I love the fact that I got to use red thread for everything! Red top stitching. Red buttonholes. Red serger thread. Love it! I also want to say that I love making buttonholes now. I've never had a machine that made them well (or at all) before my Husqvarna. It's made all the difference in the world.

Construction details: Someday, I'll be able to correctly judge my skirt size. I don't have this problem with dresses, just skirts. I try to take into account ease, finished measurements, the fact that there is a big difference between my waist and hip measurements, and the fact that I have to make sure the darn thing fits over my ass.  Even with all that in mind, I always end up choosing a few sizes too big and having to make major adjustments.

For this skirt, I cut a size 10 and started taking it in at the waist. I didn't compare my final measurements to the pattern, but I'd estimate that the waist is now closer to a size 2 or 4. The hips were taken in slightly in the process, and are probably somewhere between an 8 and 10.

"Design Features" (aka - screw ups): I accidentally cut the shell center back panel from the lining pattern piece instead of the correct shell piece. Unfortunately, that piece was about 4" shorter and I didn't have extra denim to recut. It's not bad, but it means that the skirt is just a little bit shorter than I prefer.

This is my second Beignet, and the second time I stopped following directions midway through construction. I don't know why, and I don't blame the pattern or instructions. Halfway through, I realize that I've stopped paying attention and I go off on my own. It also means that I completely ignore things like sewing twill tape along the waistband.  Someday...

The verdict: I love it. This skirt is going to be in heavy rotation this summer. I'm sure I'll make another Beignet, and am positive I'll stop paying attention to instructions, leave off the belt loops, and decide I need to go with a size 10 again because that's just how I roll.

Work In Progress - Beignet

Here's a little sneak preview of my current work in progress, Colette's Beignet skirt:

This was supposed to be a project to use up the remaining denim from my Thurlows. I don't know if it's just me, but I usually end up buying more fabric and supplies just to finish up what are supposed to be stash-busting projects. No complaints, just find it funny. For this one, I had to run out to purchase red lining (because this absolutely had to have red lining), and the perfect red buttons.

Macy was kind enough to lend her fabulous tail to this picture.

I'm having fun just taking my time and enjoying all of the red topstitching on the denim. The only thing left is to sew on belt loops.

One more thing,

I'm not sure how well this will show up on your screen, but this is a shot of my blue stained fingers. I pre-washed the denim, but am still ending up with serious case of blue hands every every time I work on the skirt! Hopefully, this little added bonus feature of the fabric wears off after a few more washes.

Knit Taffy

I remember reading on a style blog that it's a good practice to "shop" your own closet - try to look at the clothes in your closet the same way you would look at clothes in a store.  I decided I should take that same approach with my fabric stash the other night when trying to decide on my next sewing project. It was fun to rediscover and better appreciate some of the fabric that I have instead of rushing out to buy something new for a project.

I came across a see-through knit print that I purchased from Vogue Fabrics. I actually think this was one of the rare times that I didn't pick up a knit from the remnant section, but the fabric bolt was lurking close by. (Basically, most of my casual wardrobe comes from the Vogue remnant section these days.) I decided a while back that this would be perfect for Colette's Taffy pattern. Sure, the pattern calls for a fine fabric like chiffon, but I'd get way more use out of a knit.

I'm pretty sure that I purchased the Colette Sewing Handbook specifically for the Taffy pattern. Maybe it was the sleeves that caught my attention, or maybe it was the striped bias binding in their sample that made me stand up and take notice. So fluffy, so flirty, so cute.

I cut a size 4 but added a bit of length at the bottom. I didn't measure it, but probably about 1 to 2 inches. In hindsight, I should have gone longer.  I also didn't flip or trace the pattern.  I like to live on the edge and just folded the fabric in half on a diagonal in two corners and cut my piece.  It's knit, it will stretch, and it will be forgiving if not cut exactly on the bias.  I'd obviously be much more careful if making this with a more delicate fabric.

I honestly did not even notice that this pattern had a back tie until halfway through sewing.  For me it was all about the sleeves and bias trim.

 

I used an old, yellow shirt for my bias binding. The shirt has been in my scrap pile forever. I never wore it, but the fabric was too interesting to throw away.  Of course, I probably should have researched the finished dimensions of the 1/2" double fold bias binding called for in the pattern.  Apparently, end ends up being 1/4" wide when folded and sewn.  Ooops!

I also love that the entire shirt has French seams! It did add time to the construction, but I love how the finished garment is so neat professional on the inside.

And action shots:

The verdict: I like it, but I'm not sure if this shirt is exactly "me".  It's cute on the dress form, but maybe cuter there than on me? But then, I've been saying that about a lot of clothes lately.

If I were to make another, I'd move the ties up so that they would cinch the shirt at my natural waist and I would add more length. I personally like shirts that fall lower, and think they are more flattering on me.  To me, it also has an 80's vibe that I am almost ashamed to say I've been gravitating towards lately.

Never fear, it won't languish in my closet. I'll still wear it with pride and I'm sure the style will grow on me a bit more.

"The List"

I'm sure most sewers have a list of projects they want to make.  I have not just a list but "The List".  I sometimes call it my bucket list, but then I think referring to these as the projects I want to do before I die sounds way too dramatic for a list of a few dresses. But then, there's nothing wrong with a bit of drama from time to time.

A small part of "The List" was based on patterns I wanted to sew. Most of the entries started with the fabric - I've just purchased this fabric that I had to have or I would die (there's that drama again)! So now what should I do with it? The latter reason is why I'm going to show you fabric pictures instead of patterns.

So, without further adieu, I give you "The List".

1. Lady Grey Coat:

I have wanted to sew the Lady Grey Coat from Colette Patterns ever since I saw some of the wonderful versions by other bloggers.  It took me a while to find the perfect fabric, but I finally purchased some absolutely beautiful wool last year from Britex in San Francisco.  Pictures do not do this justice! I can't remember if it was called Norwegian or Icelandic Wool, but it has the most fantastic texture.  I'm almost afraid to cut into it.  When the time comes, I'm going all out on this and incorporate every couture tailoring technique I can find.


2. White Floral Cambie:

It took a while for the Cambie pattern from Sewaholic to grow on me. Now, it's grown on me so much that I'm planing to sew two of them.  This one will be the "less sweet" or straight neckline version of this dress. This fabric is from Gorgeous Fabrics.


3. Navy Eyelet Dress:

Back in September, I made it my mission to find some dark blue eyelet for a dress.  Once again, Britex to the rescue!  I've been debating on the perfect pattern for this and right now, Collette's Chantilly is the leading contender.


4. Watermelon Stretch Cotton Cambie Dress:

This is the second Cambie on my list and yes, the fabric was Britex once again. This time it was an online purchase. (See the Britex bag hanging on the wall in the background? That's right, I'm that hardcore about this store.)  I became fixated with this fabric after reading this blog post. I'm happy to say that this project is almost finished! The sweetheart neckline that I thought I could never wear looks really cute in person and I think it actually looks good on me.


5. Blue Wool Skirt:

I picked this wool up during an excursion to one of the few remaining Hancock Fabrics in the Chicago area.  (I really miss having more of these around.) I originally intended to replicate a skirt I saw on the Anthropologie website, but now am not sure.  Do I go A-line? Pencil skirt? So many decisions in life!


6. Brown, Cream and Navy Striped Thurlow Pants:

Let me tell you a story - the year was 2011 and I had just purchased one of my very first Groupons.  It was to Mood and I was so excited to be purchasing fabric from the same place that the Project Runway designers shop!  After debating for days, I decided on this striped wool for a pair of trousers. They even sent me a Mood bag! I was in heaven.  It took me until Sewaholic's Thurlow pattern came out to decide exactly what pattern to use. I'm holding off a bit on this project because I'm trying to lose a few pounds and want to make sure that I fit into whatever size I decide to sew up :)


7. Black Evening Dress:

No photograph can do this fabric justice.  It's from Gorgeous Fabrics, and like the name says,  it is gorgeous!  Ever see a fabric and not know what you want to sew with it but just know that you have to have it no matter what?  That was this fabric.  Since the purchase, I've been doing some research and have really been drawn to some 1950s vintage dress styles.  I'd like to capture that feeling with this dress.  The leading pattern contender is "The Sultry Sheath" from Gertie's New Book for Better Sewing.


8. Kitty Bed:

I never promised that everything on "The List" would be clothes or would be fancy. I previously blogged about this kitty bed. It was really nice to be able to cross one item off of my list!


9. Hanging Towel Bag:

Again, definitely not in the fancy category, but something I could really use.  I don't have a picture of this handy, but this pattern and the kitty bed above are from the book One Yard Wonders.


10. Sequin Dress:

I have no pattern, no fabric and no occasion to wear this. I just know I WANT ONE!


11. Brown Lace Dress:

This brown lace purchased from Vogue Fabrics in Evanston, IL.  The original intent was a lace shirt, but then saw a brown lace dress in a store with an exposed metal zipper. And,just like that, plans changed. No pattern yet, but this I'd say some of the more exciting projects are higher on the list so I have time to find something.


12. Dress with my own custom printed fabric:

I've been admiring the designs on Spoonflower. I'd love to try my hand at coming up with my own pattern worthy of being made into a garment.  It's not the highest priority since I have a lot of other fabric to get through first.


13. Retro Apron for my Mom:

She wants and apron and I have a great apron pattern, somewhere.  It's a sign, don't you think? Now, I just have to figure out where I put the pattern, and what fabric I should use.


So that is "The List". I'm excited to see how much of it I can get through this year!