Friday, May 17, 2013

Who's Afraid of the Big Bad Thurlow? - Part 2

Well, I didn't end up cutting out my good Mood wool yet, but after a number of mistakes and fitting issues I finally finished my first pair of Thurlow trousers:

Denim Thurlow Front View

I'd also like to mention that during the fitting process, I've never stared at so many pictures of my ass for so long in my entire life. I went through five fitting variations, and couldn't get the darn thing to fit just right in the back. I took pictures to try to help diagnose fitting problems, hence the excessive ass staring.

I give you -  ass (Thurlow) evolution:

Here's the brief summary:

1. I cut and sewed a straight size 8.  The front looked and fit fine, but there was some serious bunching going on in the back.  I get it, there's a lot of surface area for the fabric to deal with. Time to make adjustments.

2. Extensive internet research led me to add some length to the crotch in the back. Lazy me didn't want to cut a whole new pattern piece, not when I could use masking tape instead.

3. Okay, the small wedge in #2 seemed to help a bit, so lengthening the crotch more is sure to help!  I actually don't think this version was an improvement, but let's keep going forward.

Here's where I gave up on internet research; nothing was exactly what I needed.  I think this is where my "too much" information problem came into play.  When I was a blissfully ignorant sewer, I would pinch and tuck patterns like crazy.  I wanted to go back to relying on that instinct. In hindsight, maybe not such a good move.

4.  This was an attempt to take in fabric under the offending area.  I always have to make a sway back adjustment on my clothes, so maybe I need a "sway ass" adjustment for these? (Okay, I know it's not called a sway ass adjustment, but the combination of frustration and lack of sleep made this hilarious at the time.)  Image 4 shows just the right side pinned up and a bit of improvement.

5. Post sway ass adjustment. I had to abandon my masking tape and cut a new piece. I also scooped out the crotch seam a bit. It needs more, but I feel like I was almost there and ready to cut my fabric for my wearable muslin.

Fast forward about a week, a lot of swearing and me cutting out the waistband backwards, I give you the final version:

I'm trying to focus on the positives instead of the glaring fit issues. I actually think the construction looks good and I love the welt pockets. I don't think I'm going to add belt loops, because I'm not sure how much wear these will see outside of the house. 

The negatives? The fit of course. There's too much room in the crotch in front and still too much bunching in back.  I also needed to adjust the grainline because the side seam curves toward the back. I have no clue how to do this correctly, yet.  

I think I need to start from the beginning and invest in a good fitting book or online class. I'm not sure exactly where to go with this. Going down to a size 6 would probably help because I think this version is a bit too big for me, and I like pants tighter.

All in all, I don't they are bad for my first attempt. I have a lot of work to do to perfect these, but the end product will be worth it because I do love this pattern!

1 comment:

  1. I , too have a fabu ass especially with this pattern. Don't feel so bad. After I finished the first version of my working draft, I had serious plumber's butt. So a wonderful friend of mine has helped me redo it by helping me create a yoke between the waistband and the pants. It is still a work in progress.